One of the reasons we decided to go up the inside of Skye was the westerly wind that was forecast, so it was with some dismay that the wind had gone around to the south east when we left Carbost. The Old Inn's facilities were really good, primarily for walkers they are also happy for visiting yachtsmen to use them, so if you find yourself in that part of the world the showers are hot, clean and powerful, and aren't limited by coins or tokens, just pay at the bar and enjoy.
Our time in Carbost was good, and it taught us that we should be taking things easy, rather than rushing around Scotland. With the light wind on the nose we motored south east, and the wind died completely. That day the plan was to visit Loch Scavaig, billed as the best anchorage in Europe by one of the pilot books we had high hopes. We weren't dissapointed. Reading the guide books it sounds like a fearsome place, and I'm sure in bad weather it is. But with no wind it was breath taking. Surrounded by the Cuillins (900 metre high mountains that fall into the sea) on the South west of Skye, it's like being anchored in the caldera of an ancient volcano.
Pixie looked like a piece of white lint on a long black dress against it's vast sides. When we arrived a couple of tour boats were dropping passengers off, so we threaded our way past the rocks and anchored in 4.5 metres of water. No down drafts to swing Pixie's anchor out, like the pilot books warn of, no breeze at all. There were a group of Dutch Drascombe owners in the anchorage. They had spent 5 weeks sailing around every nook and cranny that Skye had to offer. We went ashore and walked up to Loch Coruisk, a fresh water loch that runs into the sea and surrounded by the Cuillins on all sides, it's amazing.
We'd missed the Outer Hebrides, but found another world.
There was still no wind when we left a few hours later. The initial plan was to take it easy and just find and anchorage a few miles to the east, but the weather was so flat, and the sun was breaking out that we decided to head 20 miles around to Doune Bay or Dun Ban Bay depending on where you look.
The going was easy under power, Kirsty cooked a boiled and roasted ham on the way. We were the only yacht on the Sound of Sleat, although the engine was on it was still peaceful. We got there at about 20:30, picked up a free mooring and poured a whisky as the sun was setting beyond Skye.
We didn't make it to the Hebrides, but we have more time to explore other parts of this magical country.
Cheers
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