Head in the clouds

We've had a busy time in Stromness over the past week, there really is so much to see and do, and we didn't see everything. While we could have stayed longer, we also wanted to explore the other islands that make up Orkney. Originally our plan was to leave on Thursday, but the wind was North west 5, so we took the opportunity to catch the ferry to Hoy. It's only 30 mins away but it means going through the Sound of Hoy and Burra Sound at spring tides. The seals enjoyed jumping through the standing waves that form as the tide squeezes through these narrow gaps between islands. I was thankful we weren't on poor little Pixie, she would have been overwhelmed by the waves that were forming.

Once ashore we set off on the 6.5 mile walk between the hills of Hoy to Rackwick then on to see the Old Man of Hoy. The walk through the valley was pretty, and although the track was very rocky in places, it was a good walk. Then it was a tiring walk up the cliffs to this magnificent stone stack. There was a bus we could have taken to Rackwick at the base of the cliffs, which we could still have taken back. The path to the Old Man has recently been re surfaced and winds it's way through the heather moorland at the top of the cliffs.


On our way up we walked up into the clouds, losing the spectacular views as we did, but following the red stone path took us to the cliff edge overlooking the Old Man. The wind was blowing mist and drizzle over us as we watched a couple of climbers working their way up this 280 metre pillar.



We found a spot of shelter to eat our packed lunch, before walking the 6.5 miles back to the ferry, arriving 30 mins before it left, we thought we'd stop at the Beneth-hill Cafe, which was a mistake to be honest. They have a captive audience waiting for the ferry, if they didn't, they might not survive. They had run out of fresh coffee, vanilla ice cream, banana ice cream, and their hot chocolate was instant just add water and all the were asking for a cup of Cadbury's hot chocolate was £2.50. I had a bit of tiffin to go with my £1.50 can of Irn Bru, crushed digestive biscuits, butter, and sugar mixed together to form a crumbly layer of cheese cake base covered in a 1/4 inch of white chocolate is not what I consider to be worthy of being called Tiffin.

The ferry back was more dramatic as the tide was in full ebb and in Burra Sound 1-2 metre high standing waves had formed. The Hoy ferry is substantial so took them and the 6+ knot tide in her stride.

The forecast for Friday was for east or south east becoming variable, 3 or 4. We had a force 3 from the west then northwest on the trip around to Westray. So we got up at 0600 to leave at 0640 to catch the last of the ebb to take us west out of the Sound of Hoy then catch the flood all the way up to Westray. With little or no wind we had to motor the whole way, not very exciting, but more fun than if it had been blowing like the previous day.

We arrived at 1345 and we were met by the harbour master. Like many of the north Scotland harbour masters Pierowall's can usually be found in overalls, rather than the dark blue jumpers and white shirts of their south coast counterparts. A chatty man with a soft Orcadian accent which flows like poetry. He was expecting 20 yachts in for Westray's annual regatta. Sadly only 6 yachts turned up from Kirkwall to race, but a ferry load of dinghies arrived and were craned off one by one.

We watched the start of the racing from Pixie's cockpit before heading off to pick up a couple of hire bikes. I have three bicycles at home in London, so although I wasn't expecting anything like my own bikes, I have seen better bikes at the recycling centre. It wasn't quite what I'm used to, but they got us to Noltland castle, on to Noup Head and back via the archeological site where the Westray Wifie was found.



Standing a couple of inches high the Westray Venus, to give it its official name, is the oldest portrayal of a human figure ever found. Dating back almost 5000 years it's on display in the Westray heritage centre which we visited yesterday.